You put your rifle together, mounted an optic, and absolutely whiffed your shot.
What happened?
You probably haven’t zeroed your optic correctly. In this guide, I’m gonna show you exactly how to zero your riflescope. Here’s how:
- Step 1: Read manual
- Step 2: 36-Yard Target
- Step 3: Shoot
- Step 4: Adjust
Let’s get into it!
Basic Parts for Zeroing an Optic
Before you zero your scope, you have to know the basic parts, starting with…
Elevation Knobs
The elevation knob — located on the top of your scope — is your “up and down” adjustment. If you’re shooting high, you need to turn the elevation knob left. And vice versa.
Windage Knobs
The windage knob — located on the side of your scope — is your “left and right” adjustment. If you’re shooting too far to the right, then you need to turn the windage knob left. And vice versa.
Parallax Adjustment
You won’t have to worry about this for zeroing your scope, so you can skip this. But if you’re interested, what does the parallax adjustment knob do? It provides eye relief by making your reticle and scope image line up. This is essential at higher magnification levels.
Illumination
Illumination is how bright your dot or reticle is. This knob helps you brighten or dim your reticle.
Magnification
Magnification is pretty self-explanatory: it makes far things look closer. High magnification will give you better and closer visuals at range but limits your field of view.
Focus Ring
Some variable magnification scopes have a focus ring. These are usually located by the objective lens (the one closest to your eye when you peep down the scope). This ring can be used to ensure that both your target and reticle are in focus simultaneously.
Zeroing Distance
Zeroing distance is a hot topic among shooters and we could talk about it for hours, but today I’m gonna keep it short and simple.
First, you need to know that bullets don’t actually travel perfectly parallel to the ground. They travel in an arc, like this:
Depending on your zero distance (the distance at which you’ve made your optic accurate), you will have two distances where your point of aim (where your put your reticle) will match your point of impact (where your round lands).
Today we’re using a 36-yard zero. 36 yards is my near zero (closest to me) and roughly 100 yards is my far zero. At these two distances, my rounds will impact at my point of aim.
This zero distance is my favorite because you have two very solid distances where your shots will be bang-on and adjustments for other distances will be a piece of cake.
At this zero, you don’t need to make dramatic adjustments (holding your reticle way above or below the target) to hit shots at, say, 75 yards.
Shooting for Zero
Get your target out to 36 yards. Use a bullseye target like this:
- Instantly see your SHOTS BURST BRIGHT FLUORESCENT YELLOW upon impact, spend more time shooting and less time checking your target.
- "Stick & Splatter" HIGH STRENGTH adhesive targets stick to almost anything at any temperature. The 1” grids make sighting in SIMPLE and replacement bullseyes will extend the life of your target.
- BRIGHT HIGH CONTRASTING colors make it EASY to see you shots at a distance, no more wasting time walking downrange to SEE YOUR SHOTS.
Now, position yourself. Take your time to brace on a solid object. Sandbags (or shooting bags if you’re fancy) are a fantastic option for this:
- MULTI-USE Designed to create a solid and steady platform when aiming your rifle. Supports almost any rifle or shotgun type and gives everything you need for solid, wobble free shooting, especially at...
- DURABLE & WATER-RESISTANT Made of durable, water-resistant 600 denier polyester. Stay sturdy even after years of use, perfect for outdoor activities in extreme environment.
- PROTECT YOUR RIFLE FINISH Durable construction of oxford cloth and soft leather with non-marring surface to prevent your rifle from any unwanted marks or scratches.
Just something to keep your rifle as steady as possible while you prep your shot.
Look down your sight and line up your reticle or crosshair in the center of the target while being as steady as possible.
Once you’re perfectly lined up, squeeze your trigger smoothly.
Put your rifle on safe and peer through your scope to see where you’ve landed.
Take note of where your round lands on the target. I typically use the high-vis targets linked above and just look through my optic to see where I’ve landed. Otherwise, you can use binoculars…
- 10x magnification & 42mm objective lenses, these Crossfire HD binos are optimized with select glass elements to deliver exceptional resolution, cut chromatic aberration and provide outstanding color...
- Fully multi-coated lenses increase light transmission with multiple anti-reflective coatings on all air-to-glass surfaces. Roof prism design is valued for greater durability and a more compact size.
- Adjustable eyecups twist up and down for comfortable viewing with or without eyeglasses. Center focus wheel adjusts the focus of both binocular barrels at the same time. Diopter (located on right...
…or a spotter scope:
- 25-75x zoom;SV28 spotting scope is easy to focus and change magnification;easily set up when looking at birds and scenery;A great spotting scope for beginner to novice
- 70mm large object lens;More powerful light gathering ability;70mm tube allows plenty of light and decent view of the target once set;extendable sunshade built onto the main barrel to reduce glare
- IP65 waterproof;Can avoid sudden environmental changes to damage the SV28 spotting scope;The finish is made of a seamless Non-Slip material so it doesn't feel like it would slip out of your hands if...
This is where you get to trial and error.
For example, if you’re shooting low and to the right, I’d need to turn my windage knob (right and left) to the front a couple of clicks and then my elevation knob(up and down) to the left a couple of clicks.
Take care not to turn your adjustment knobs too much or you’ll just need to adjust the opposite way.
It’s boring, but this is essentially the entire process.
Take a shot, turn the respective adjustment knob one or two clicks. See where your shot lands and repeat the process.
Technical Details
You may have noticed I skimped out on some technical details like MOA and the different zeroing distances. Lots of guides have a lot of technical jargon that might be difficult to sift through, so I tried to trim the fat and keep it to the point.
If you want me to go in-depth here, let me know in the comments down below or check out my Riflescope Basics guide.
Get Out There
To recap, here’s how to zero a riflescope:
- Step 1: Familiarize yourself with your equipment. Read your instruction manual and my Scope basics guide.
- Step 2: Take your target out to 36 yards. Walk out to 36 yards and plant your target by bracing on a solid object.
- Step 3: Aim and shoot. Be deliberate and slow when you take aim.
- Step 4: Check your point of impact and adjust. Use a scope or binoculars to confirm your shot, adjust, and shoot again.
If you still can’t get it to work, then try watching this video: